I really, really, really love the sunroof in my minivan. It is huge and it is centered right over my bed, so I can watch the stars at night, enjoy towering trees around me, and see the first glow of morning creep across the sky. It’s a fabulous way to wake up.

I spent my second day exploring the Mountain Loop Highway, a winding Washington forest road connecting Granite Falls to Darrington.

I stopped for a short hike to Big Four Ice Caves. I couldn’t actually get to the caves because a bridge was washed out (which they tell you a mile in rather than at the trailhead), but it was a pretty stop to enjoy the mountain views anyway. Isn’t this magical?

I was alone on the trail, which wasn’t remote but still, alone is alone. And as I was hiking alone my mind did its usual wandering, and I found myself thinking about bears. I thought, this seems like someplace a bear would live, what if I encountered a bear on the trail? I’m all alone, I’d rather not meet a bear, I think I’ll turn back. And about that moment, I kid you not, right in front of me was a big pile of bear scat. Weirdly, this is the second time I’ve had this experience of suddenly, randomly thinking about bears and boom, there’s fresh bear scat. I swear I have a special sixth sense for bears.

After a slow mosey on the mountain loop to soak in every bit of scenery – wow! ooooh! omg! – I landed at Sauk Park campground for the night. I don’t have any reservations for this trip so I’m just taking my chances, hoping that midweek travel will work in my favor. And I scored big again!

Sauk Park is operated by Skagit County and is a sleepy quiet little joint.  I had the place almost to myself in a site overlooking the Sauk River. There was a little trail from my campsite going down to a perfect little private beach. And the water was that stunning turquoise color and so clear!

It needs to be said, because I have made so much of it in the past, that I am sleeping great in my van! This is such an enormous relief, because I wasn’t sure I could sustain my van adventures without being able to sleep. And it would be heartbreaking to give it up!